
POPLAR ISLAND -- While most
of the
Chesapeake Bay's islands
are slowly vanishing beneath
the waves, one not far from
Baltimore is staging a
remarkable renaissance.
Poplar Island, former
hunting retreat, hangout for
politicos and black cat
farm, had nearly washed away
by the late 1990s. But it's
since been restored to the
size it was when it was
still a thriving
19th-century farming and
fishing community, using
muck dredged from the
shipping channels leading to
Baltimore just 34 miles to
the northwest.
Pairing economic necessity
with environmental
restoration, state and
federal government agencies
have teamed up to barge 18
million cubic yards of silt
to this island just off
Talbot County on the Eastern
Shore. The stuff has been
scraped from the bay bottom
so cargo-laden ships won't
run aground. Once deposited
and dried out behind dikes
protecting the island from
the bay, the reclaimed
material is being shaped by
heavy equipment and
volunteers' hands into a
combination of salt marsh
and wooded uplands.
Begun 12 years ago, the
effort has rebuilt the
island from a few desolate
patches of eroding sand to
1,140 acres, roughly what
surveyors measured in 1847.
The massive undertaking is
costing $667 million, with
the federal government
picking up 75 percent of the
tab and the Maryland Port
Administration the
remainder. And it's less
than halfway done, with
plans to add another 575
acres of land.
But it's already teeming
with life again, though of
the winged and four-footed
variety.
"If you build it, they will
come," quips Jan Reece, an
environmental consultant for
the state, as he peers
through binoculars to tally
the thousands of gulls,
herons and shorebirds
feeding and sunning
themselves. A bald eagle
perches on a stand that
gives it a panoramic view of
the low-slung landform.
"I was here when it was a
natural island, and I saw it
disappear," says Reece, who
grew up on nearby
Tilghman Island and who
in his youth studied birds
on the dwindling Poplar in
the 1960s. "And here it is,
bigger than it ever was."
Settled early
It's a rare second act for
an island with a rich
history.
English colonists
settled here in the early
1630s, rebuilt after an
Indian massacre and raised
livestock and tobacco, among
other crops.
British warships camped here
during the War of 1812, and
in the 1840s, a grandson of
Charles Carroll of
Carrollton, Maryland's
signer of the Declaration of
Independence, started a fur
farm on the island,
importing 1,000 black cats
and hiring a waterman to
supply them with fish. But
the bay froze over that
winter, according to a
history of the bay's
disappearing islands by
William B. Cronin. The
waterman couldn't get fish
to the animals, Cronin
recounts, so they apparently
escaped across the ice to
the mainland in search of
food.
By the late 1800s, the
island had split into three
pieces, but the main portion
harbored a community named
Valiant with about 100
residents, a post office, a
school, a general store and
a sawmill.
That sawmill might have been
what accelerated the erosion
of the island, suggests
Laura Baker, an educator
with the Maryland
Environmental Service, which
is managing the restoration
project for the port
administration. "They cut
all the trees down," she
said, and destroyed the
roots that were helping to
hold the sandy land
together.
Whatever the cause, by 1920,
the last permanent resident
had left. The island's next
incarnation was as a hunting
retreat and political
hangout. A group of
Democrats bought Poplar and
one of its spinoff islands
in the 1930s and built a
clubhouse on the adjunct,
which was subsequently
called Jefferson Island. It
was a favorite getaway for
President
Franklin D. Roosevelt;
his successor,
Harry S. Truman, also
apparently visited.
The clubhouse burned down in
1946. Two years later, the
two islands were bought by a
former caretaker and his
wife, who built a hunting
and fishing lodge on the
ruins of the old clubhouse.
"At that time, Poplar was
still about 200 acres,"
recalls Peter K. Bailey, 69,
of Bozman, who was a young
boy when his family owned
the island. There were still
some trees and herons and
crows, he said, and deer.
"We had duck blinds over
there," he says of Poplar,
"and I used to row over
there in a boat and
explore."
After only a few years,
though, Bailey's father died
and the family sold the
islands. They were the last
to live there full-time.
Poplar's adjunct islands,
Jefferson and Coaches,
remain privately owned.
Let's muck it up
State and federal officials
hit upon reclaiming Poplar
Island in the 1990s as they
cast about to find
acceptable places to dispose
of the muck dredged from
Baltimore's shipping
channels.
For many years, the port had
dumped the material back in
the water a short distance
from where it was scooped
up, but political pressure
halted that practice amid
concerns about its impact on
water quality and fish. The
channels need to be dredged
regularly or they will silt
in, threatening thousands of
jobs and one of the state's
most important economic
hubs.
Starting in 1998, the island
has been rebuilt in stages.
Dikes were erected first to
encompass the remnants of
the old Poplar and to create
a series of "cells"
sheltered from the bay.
Beginning in 2001, a
chocolate-milk-colored
slurry of water and dredged
silt has been pumped off
barges into the cells and
allowed to dry out. Some of
the manipulation is done
with large excavating
machines on tracks, made of
aluminum so they won't sink
in the quicksand-like wet
silt.
The stuff is spread to
carefully calibrated
elevations, so it will get
wet during high tides, and
channels are created to
allow the bay's waters to
reach the new marshland.
Then wetland grasses are
planted, many times by
volunteers, and other
landscaping is done to
attract various wildlife.
"It's amazing how quickly
we've got a 1,100-acre
island well on its way,"
says Kevin Brennan, project
manager for the
U.S. Army Corps of
Engineers, Baltimore
District.
There have been glitches.
The silt used to establish
the marshes is rich in
nitrogen from the
nutrient-choked bay, and
wetland grasses have grown
so fast with such a glut of
plant food that they are
falling over from their own
weight in places.
"It's not toxic, but just
very, very rich with
nitrogen," explains J. Court
Stevenson, an ecologist at
the University of Maryland's
Horn Point environmental
laboratory.
Marshes normally are
considered good natural
"sponges" for nutrients that
otherwise might foul the
water, but Stevenson says in
this case there appears to
be more than the plants can
handle. He thinks the
problem might be that the
plants aren't getting enough
silica particles through
their roots from the silt,
which might help firm up
their stalks.
Similarly, efforts to
attract migratory least
terns to a specially
prepared habitat patch on
the island didn't work out
as expected. The shorebirds
seem to like to nest on bare
ground covered with oyster
shells, but with those in
short supply these days,
scientists working on the
project decided to try pea
gravel instead. It evidently
turned off the terns.
"We call it 'adaptive
management,' kind of a
buzzword for learning as we
go," says Chris Guy, a
biologist with the U.S. Fish
and Wildlife Service.
Bird magnet
Complications
notwithstanding, the island
has attracted a rich array
of bird life, nearly 170
different species, of which
close to 30 nest here. It's
the only island in the bay
where common terns nest,
biologists say.
"The diversity of wildlife
here is amazing," says Peter
McGowan, another federal
biologist. This year the
number of snowy egrets hit
an all-time high, he says,
and tricolor herons were
seen here for the first
time.
Poplar is also home to a
thriving community of
diamondback terrapins.
Upward of 1,000 are hatched
on the island every year,
Baker says, and a portion of
those baby terrapins are
farmed out to Maryland
schoolchildren who raise
them as classroom projects
and bring them back every
spring to release.
The island even draws
two-legged life. More than
2,000 people visit annually,
about half of them school
groups. Delegations from
China, Japan, Central and
South America have come to
see how an island is being
rebuilt. The Maryland
Environmental Service also
offers tours to the general
public.
"It's great to see it come
back," says Bailey. "I know
it's essential for the
economy of the state to have
the channels dredged and
you've got to have someplace
to put it. Being able to
have that great wildlife is
a bonus."
There are no plans to make
it into a park, though, as
that would conflict with its
role as a wildlife
sanctuary.
Will it slip away again?
With scientists warning that
climate change is
accelerating the sea level's
rise, some might question
why the government would
invest in re-creating a
low-lying island that could
ultimately wash away again.
The Corps' Brennan says
Poplar's marshes have been
built up as high as they can
be and still be wetlands,
and the island is virtually
armored with large riprap
boulders.
"We're buying ourselves more
time," he adds.
But with most of the rest of
the bay's islands gradually
washing away, the remote
habitat Poplar can provide
is needed now, biologists
say, whatever its long-term
fate.
"Island habitat is some
crucial habitat that's not
forming anymore," says Guy.
Though Poplar will continue
to receive dredged material
for another 17 years or so,
the port and Corps are
looking for other
disappearing islands to
reclaim as wildlife havens.
The next candidates are
James and Barren islands,
off
Dorchester County.
Using dredged material to
rebuild vanishing islands is
more expensive than
depositing it on the nearest
available land, officials
acknowledge. The Poplar
project has cost nearly
three times what it cost to
deposit muck at the now-full
Hart-Miller Island off
Baltimore County, says Frank
L. Hamons, deputy director
of the Maryland Port
Administration. Even so, the
Poplar costs are a fraction
of what ports elsewhere like
New York pay to dispose of
their dredged material, he
says.
Besides replenishing the
shrinking supply of wildlife
habitat, the port official
notes, Poplar has a public
relations purpose as well.
Until recently, at least,
people tended to view
dredged material as noxious
and oppose its disposal
anywhere near them. By
creating wildlife habitat,
he points out, port
officials can demonstrate
the stuff has beneficial
uses.
"It costs more. Is the
public willing to pay? With
all the support Poplar gets
here, the answer has to be
yes."


